Last stop: Medellin

After Rio Claro, we settled for the next couple days in Medellin, enjoying our hot showers once again. Not only was it a bit chilly and rainy most of the time, but since it was Semana Santa (Holy Week), much of the city was closed down.  It was nice to see that money-making isn't always top priority in other parts of the world.  

Besides enjoying some fine dining, we visited Parque Arvi and Parque Explora.  I have written about Parque Arvi in the past, but just to recap, it's a large park located at the very top of Medellin's mountains.  To get there, we had to take the subway through just about the whole city and then a couple of metrocables (enclosed ski lifts).  The views are spectacular.

At the top, there are quite a few vendors selling hand-made items and food.  Of course, we shopped around a bit before and after our hike.  How else is one supposed to experience the culture?  

The hike was down and up the main road through the park.  The main draw was just getting some fresh air, but there were a couple of small waterfalls to see, too.  While heading down, we passed a procession of people doing the Stations of the Cross (it was Good Friday); there were large bouquets of flowers posted every 200 meters or so for this purpose.  

Calvin? Is that you? 

Luckily, we finished our tour of the park before the cold really started to set in, though this was after getting rained on during our hike.  

Our next stop was Parque Explora, an interactive museum geared towards learning about all different subjects: the mind, dinosaurs, scientific experiments, etc.  There was a decent-sized aquarium and reptile exhibit as well.  Since everyone had the day off, the park was packed full of families.  It was a pleasant sight to see.  

The next morning it was already time to head to the airport.  Dad and I walked to a commercial center one more time to get me a phone, but I decided to wait until Cartagena.  

The trip with Mama and Dad passed by quickly, and I had a wonderful time.  Already, I am planning their trip here next year (that's right: without their say-so in the matter).  Maybe into the Santander region north of Bogota where Colombia's only wineries exist.....

Rio Claro

Our next stop was Rio Claro, a large nature reserve east of Medellin. That's right: we had to take yet another bus, this time for a three-hour ride.  

The bus dropped us off at the side of the only highway through the area.  Right away, we could feel the delicious humidity and warmth.  Okay, those are my words.  For some reason, I don't think Mama and Dad were feeling the same way, especially after they had to lug their suitcases two miles over rocky terrain to get to our cabin.  (This is when I LOVE my backpack.)

How shall I put this...?  The cabin was rustic.  There were no windows, only open-aired "walls" with beautiful views overlooking the river and forest.  The bathroom was fine, except for the fact that privacy wasn't really an option.  From my top bunk, I could look over and see whatever happened to be going on in there (not like I wanted to, but there was the possibility).  Plus, the only water coming out of any spigots was cold, which I am used to.  Mama, on the other hand, gave Dad and I a concert every time she stepped under with shrieks and gasps.  Heehehehehehhehehee.  Welcome to my world.  

There was only one dangling light bulb for the whole room and no fan.  Needless to say, I got the best sleep I had had in weeks there.

The view from our room.

In the two days we were there, we did many activities.  The first was going rafting down Rio Claro.  Although there were only class one and two rapids, the scenery was beautiful (the whole reserve is either marble or trees), and it was a terrific way to see the area.  Plus, our guide, Johnny, was entertaining, and there was a friendly Colombian family with us.  The other two paddlers in our boat were French guys, and boy, did they fit the description.  Although they sat in the front and were supposed to be the leaders, most of the time they were either talking, taking pictures, or lightly dipping their oars into the water.  Thank goodness we weren't on a major river where we would have had to rely on these guys!  Luckily, they gave the rest of us something to chuckle over.  

This was after rafting.

Another activity was ziplining.  Since there were only three rather short lines, it was more of just something to do than a thrill, but we were able to chat with some of the guides working there and hear more about their lives.

Open-mouthed screaming.

Casually cool.

The pièce de résistance, though, was the Cueva de los Guacharos.  Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures because any cameras brought on this adventure would have been either lost or damaged.  

Our escapade started with an hour and a half hike through the forest, over giant, mossy rocks and a couple river crossings.  When we finally made it to the cave, the three of us took to the back and soon got a little behind the rest of the group.  The only items we had between us were two small flashlights and a water bottle.  

Wading through the start of the cave into the darkness, we began to hear this awful screeching sound like dry-throated, infuriated hissing witches.  To make matters even worse, giant, flapping wings beat just overhead, threatening to come down and pulverize us.  All of this pandemonium was coming from the guacharos (wailers), nocturnal birds that feed on fruit (they didn't tell us that beforehand, of course) and use echolocation to navigate at night. 

Click on the first soundtrack to just get a taste of the guacharos' screechings, and try to imagine being in a pitch-black cave.  https://archive.org/details/JoseRicardoDelgado-PaysageSonoroColumbiagfr054

(Begin Indiana Jones theme music.)

For an hour and a half, we waded through guacharo-poop-filled water, sometimes getting chunks of rock into our water shoes.  No problem, right?  Well, then came the acrobatics.  There were several parts where we had to jump or slide off ledges into pools below, holding our flashlights above our heads so as not to get them wet.  (Without a flashlight, you're a goner.)  This never would have been allowed in the United States.  Instead, there would be lights placed strategically throughout the cave, stairs instead of jumps, and a smooth surface to walk over.  Occasionally, our guide would try to inform us of some interesting fact, but he was almost impossible to hear over the running water and guacharos.  At the end of the cave, we had to swing our legs over a ledge and climb down a rope ladder the guide was holding before crossing the river one last time.  It was amazing and definitely one of the highlights of the trip.

The end of the cave.

That evening, Dad and I meandered back to the end of the cave to watch the guacharos fly out for their evening meal.  As the light faded, we began to hear the slapping of wings and awful screams again.  Slowly but surely, the monster birds started bursting out of the cave.  Being across the river, Dad and I figured we'd be safe.  Ummmm....no.  The creatures began swooping all around us until we had backed away several yards, not wanting an episode of The Birds happening.  We finally decided it was time to leave when something wet landed on my mouth from the tree above.  Ewwwww.....

Scammed

  Monday was a travel day.  After a quick breakfast, we took an early bus for the hour-ride to Pereira, a larger city with more options on getting to Medellin.  We bought our tickets for the supposed four-and-a-half-hour ride and proceeded to wait a bit before boarding.
  When I got on the bus, Mama and Dad were already talking with a man (in English).  We all thought he worked for the bus company.  He came over and offered to take my small backpack (the one I never let go of) and put it on the top shelf.  Stupidly, I let him have it knowing that as soon as he left, I would take it back down because that's where all my valuables are.  In the ten seconds his hands were on my bag, he was able to grab and hide (who knows how he did it) my Kindle, phone and wallet.
  Luckily, I found out before the bus departed and was able to alert the police.  Obviously, there was no way they were going to find the man, but I needed a report written up.  In my wallet was my credit card, bank card, and cedula (the Colombian ID).  I had no other form of identification with me, and the airlines require it.  The police were friendly enough and let me use their computer to cancel my credit card (or at least try to).  Within an hour, we were able to leave and get on another bus.
  Seven hours later, the bus finally rolled into Medellin.  Not only had Mama and Dad spent the whole time in the bus station, but then they cheerfully accompanied me (with all our luggage) to a mall in the middle of rush hour to try to get a new phone and some money from the bank.  This is when one knows she has amazing travel partners.  They took care of canceling my phone account while I waited in the bank for a couple hours, finally leaving with cash and a new ATM card.  
  As big of a hassle as it is to be robbed, I rather admire the smoothness of the guy.  It's quite impressive.  Furthermore, there was no violence attached like the knife robbery in Nicaragua, so I wasn't automatically distrustful of every Dick, Moe, and Larry I saw.  My biggest issues (besides being infuriated with myself for letting it happen) were that I lost items of sentimental value and that I was worried the whole incident would mar Mama and Dad's opinion on Colombia.  Luckily, in the time since the robbery, we met tons of friendly, helpful people, so I don't think that was the case.
  The best part of the day?  Grabbing a bite to eat near our hotels around nine o'clock at night.  A bottle of wine and three giant, juicy hamburgers later, the robbery was a thing of the past, and we were ready for our next adventure.

Valle de Cocora

 For our second day in Salento, we hiked around Valle de Cocora, an area in a national park known for its magnificent wax palm trees.  To get there, we rode in a Willy, or jeep, that has been popular in the area since WWII.  

The day started off cloudy and even started raining at the end of our hike. Since the park is located in a cloud forest nestled in the Andes mountains, this was to be expected.  The scenery is absolutely stunning and the air fresh.  Pictures just cannot do some things justice. 

 On our hike, we overcame many obstacles: mud, barbed-wire fences, rickety bridges, and everyone's personal favorite, horse poop.  Many parts of the trail were narrow, so when a tour of riders on horseback came through, we were forced to jump to the side, sometimes even being splattered with all sorts of nastiness from the horses' hooves.  

 Some people (ahem, Mama) disobeyed posted signs and took shortcuts in order not to risk their lives in the trenches.  

Of course, who could blame them when this was the alternative route?

We turned back in the nick of time, as towards the end of the hike, the chill rain began.  Thankfully, we were able to get a cup of coffee/tea while waiting for a Willy to take us back. 

Salento

Our first stop in the Coffee Zone was Salento, a quaint, hilly town with colorful houses and quite a few tourists.  Saturday morning we took a leisurely stroll through farmland to tour the Ocaso Coffee Farm.  The dog below joined us from the start and stayed with us throughout our tour, even getting jealous of other dogs coming too near.  

The tour lasted about an hour and ended with a sampling of their coffee.  Unfortunately, we all agreed it was nothing to write home about and were quite disappointed.  The views were amazing and our tour guide friendly, so all was not lost.  

Close to the center of Salento, there is a decent-sized stairway with the Stations of the Cross at various intervals for the devout.  Needing more exercise, we climbed to the top a couple times during our trip.  Thank goodness it was cooler here!

While touring around town, we kept passing these citizens with guns.  For some reason, I believed they were protecting the town so tourists would continue to support the businesses.  I was wrong, of course.  Dad finally asked a lady what the deal was.  It turns out that it's a shooting darts game where you try to hit the bulls-eyes on the green board.  Costing just a buck for seven shots, we decided to give it a go.

Dad was up first.  Looking like a pro, he proceeded to hit close to the targets but nothing worth the awesome prizes they were offering.  Obviously, the gun was rigged.  My aim wasn't any better, and I am relieved to know that I will never have to hunt for my food.  

When Mama's turn was up, a small crowd started gathering.  Every time she aimed, the people would take a giant step back....just in case.  I cannot even tell you how Mama shot because it would literally take her three or four minutes to fire each time.  By the time the dart finally departed from the gun, my eyes were exhausted from staring at the green board for so long.  

Of course, the gun lady was loving all the attention for her game, so she wasn't complaining.  

One of the most irritating parts of this trip was how Mama's hair and makeup were always done perfectly.  Are you kidding me?!  (Yes, Dad always looked good, too, but he's a guy and has a much easier time of it.)

Two nights in a row, we ate at this fusion restaurant that a young man and his wife started a year ago.  The food was excellent (especially the filet mignon), and the bottles of wine that accompanied the meals were a treat.  It's so nice to have people around who appreciate wine!

After dinner on Saturday night, we sat in a nearby bar and listened to Johnny, an attractive young man with a soulful voice, sing many of the popular songs playing on the Colombian radio now. It was the perfect way to end the evening.  

The Visit

On Wednesday, March 25th, Mama and Dad landed in Cartagena.  Loving Colombia as much as I do, I was anxious to show them this beautiful country and have them experience traveling in a third-world country.  

Even after a red-eye flight, they were wide-eyed and chipper when I picked them up.  Dropping their luggage off at the hotel, we set off in the heat of the day to walk around el Centro.  This may not have been the best idea because Cartagena was going through a hot spell, and the humidity was high.  Luckily, we found an air-conditioned cafe to cool ourselves down in.  

The next day, Mama and Dad visited my school where I was constantly hearing (for days afterward, too) comments on how young my parents are and how much I look like my mom.  Lucky me.

That evening, Guadalupe came to my rescue and made a typical Costeño meal for us.  This was after working her butt off all week at her other employer's house.  Have I said how much I love the lady?  

Although I am happy Mama and Dad saw my place of residence, I do believe they were relieved to fly out Friday afternoon for cooler temperatures.  It probably didn't help that as we were leaving my apartment for the airport, the power suddenly went out, and Dad had to lug two suitcases down twenty flights of stairs...in the humidity...with no A/C.  Ahhhh....Colombia!